Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
