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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.